Sentez Rooftop Restaurant

Rooms With Views to Feast On

Andrew Finkel takes in the fine scenery outside three new Istanbul restaurants

ABOVE The sublime panorama at Sentez’s culinary eyrie in Sultanahmet

THE UNEXPECTED star at Sentez – a culinary eyrie overlooking the Blue Mosque, Ayasofya and the sea beyond – is a humble içli köfte, bulgur packed around a meat filling. As kibbeh, it is the national snack of Lebanon, but in Turkey it is too often a kebab-shop afterthought, the cultural equivalent of a saveloy: crunchy and greasy if fried, healthier and soggy if boiled. What stands out in the Sentez variant is the quality and flavour of the meat – pulled lamb, sealed tight inside an elastic wrapper of kneaded bulgur. And yes, it is boiled, but without losing texture, and it sits on a bed of thick herbed yoghurt for extra lift. As a dish, it is familiar and low key yet somehow delivers an element of luxury and surprise.

It also typifies what is right about Sentez, where chef Fatih Demirci builds upon the ingredients and standard dishes of Turkish regional cooking to create something out of the ordinary – not to show off (although there is the odd touch of showmanship), but because he so clearly likes to cook. A piece of rock sea bass comes with a scoop of light artichoke mousse and sits unobtrusively on a caramelised onion reduction that binds the two together. A piece of Karayaka lamb (a Black Sea breed), unusually for Turkey, arrives pink, with an attractive springiness and without that distracting gamey edge. The meat is topped with chargrilled morel mushrooms and, better still, accompanied by a delicious mushroom “porridge” of pounded wheat (keşkek). I was initially flummoxed by the side jus, which had a touch of mesir macunu — a honey-like syrup with scores of cinnamon-type spices that is the subject of locker-room jokes for improving every sort of appetite. But lamb benefits from a little sweetness, and it worked on the plate.

Sentez solves two problems that have long plagued me. The first is finding a restaurant to recommend in the centre of Istanbul’s historic peninsula. Tripadvisor is full of restaurants endorsed by the legions of tourists who pass through Sultanahmet, and though I am sure some of them might be decent, I have never heard of an Istanbullu making the detour to seek one out. I have praised the “modern Anatolian cuisine” at Avlu, in the nearby courtyard of the Four Seasons Hotel, and there is always the Tarihi Sultanahmet Köftecisi near the tram stop for a snack of meatballs and haricot beans. But it is a relief to discover a comfortable spot that serves creative food to reward a busy day’s sightseeing – or to lure someone from a residential neighbourhood to the Old City.

Sentez occupies a terrace with a commanding view of some of the most important buildings on earth, and one could do worse than watch the sunset, drink in hand. I am a cocktail sceptic because, apart from the silly names, they are all too often designed to conceal the punch of alcohol I enjoy. However, I happily admit to being impressed by an anonymous, gin-based ginger-and-cucumber cocktail that had a foamy head like a pisco sour, made not from egg white but whisked soapwort (çöven), a substance I know from its infinitely less appealing incarnation as the marshmallowy froth on top of a sweet biscuit called kerebiç, common in the Mediterranean city of Mersin.

Which brings me to my second conundrum, long explored in this column: trying to find a median between authenticity and innovation, craft and skill, a kitchen working within the boundaries of tradition and one trying to strike out on its own. “Sentez” means “synthesis”, which implies that these are the very contradictions chef Demirci sets out to resolve. So tender grilled squid sits on a puddle of vine-leaf potage next to a salad of pickled rock samphire. A starter of fried aubergine is turned Japanese with a miso and tahini topping. That soapwort reappears on the dessert menu as a cold meringue on top of almond praline, poached peach and almond crumble. It is not often we get to deal with Hegelian dialectics at dinner (“Waiter, there’s an Aufhebung in my soup”), but the reworking of the familiar through unusual juxtapositions, all to advance something new, is a tasty way to start.

STUBBORN INFLATION in Turkey means, alas, that dining out in Istanbul is no longer a bargain, but you will probably have figured that out the moment you enter Has – a large, immaculately groomed space of glowing wood, mile-high ceilings, and muted ceramic panelling. This is the upmarket flagship of the Biz restaurant complex that sits atop the newly restored Atatürk Cultural Centre, and it boasts a Bosphorus panorama that is spectacular

Sentez Rooftop Restaurant

In the heart of the Historical Peninsula, where layers of culture enchant every visitor, the dining scene is evolving with the arrival of new high-end venues. One of the most striking additions is Sentez Restaurant, which opened in May 2025 on the rooftop of Hotel Komana Binbirdirek.

With its breathtaking panoramic views, refined chef-driven kitchen, and stylish atmosphere, Sentez has quickly become one of the area’s standout addresses .Featuring a modern and comfortable décor, the restaurant promises a unique dining experience overlooking the breathtaking cityscape.

Under the leadership of Chef Fatih Anıl Demirci, the menu brings together the rich flavors of Anatolian and Mediterranean cuisines, reimagined with contemporary touches. Among the standout starters Smoked Tarama, From the signature dishes, the 72-Hour Slow-Cooked Lamb, and from the stone oven, the sourdough flatbreads are not to be missed.

Guests can savor signature cocktails while watching the sunset, making the terrace an ideal spot for celebrations, romantic dinners and welcoming international visitors. Sentez Restaurant is not just a restaurant—it’s an elevated culinary journey that celebrates flavor, atmosphere, and the city’s mesmerizing skyline.

Kaynak: Grablocals